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Arthur Dollhouse Kit
Doll House woodworking plans.
Crown Molding

The built up trim consists of a "Sub Trim", which is shapped like a "T" and the crown molding which fits up to this.
The vertical piece is made up of poplar and a 1" strip of oak, held together with glue and biscuits. The top of the "T" is held in place with pocket screws only, so it can be adjusted in the field if need be. The "T" helps secure the trim to the ceiling and provides a good nailing surface for the crown. The back of the "T" will be cut off where it fits around the cabinet.

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Last year I built a few pieces for a local collector's showroom. He's now ready for me to complete the crown molding. The Crown will conceal some indirect lighting which will highlight his collecton, so the leading edge of the trim will be held 15" off the walls, except against the Ammo Cabinet pictured at left.
This shows the "T" secton mitered up against the cabinet.
The back of the "T" was removed so the sub trim fits tightly to the cabinet. I also did this to the right of the cabinet near the entrance.
This shows the trim where it terminates at the door, mitered to run into the wall on the right. The left side is butted to the subtrim on the cabinet. Here the next piece is "coped" to fit the face of this piece. More on that later.
This finishes of the cabinet, The coped piece has an outside miter joint abd that next piece buts into the subtrim again. Now I just need to go around the room, butting the left hand side of each piece of crown and coping it into the previous piece.
Another "coped joint. the other end has a but joint.
This pic shows the "T" shaped subtrim as it works it's way around the room. You can see how it's held off the walls, indirect lighting will be hung behind this trim.
This shows the crown butted to that sub trim in the previous picture. Part of the subtrim needs to be removed so the butt end can be fitted tight to the next piece. The next piece will be coped to fit against this piece.
It's really not that tough to cope the inside corners of the room. You only need to miter one side of the corner joint. When cutting, remember that the crown is upside down. Think of the bed of the saw as the ceiling, and the fence as the wall. The longest point of the miter will be against the wall. 

Notice the block clamped to the bed, this keeps the trim at the proper angle. It should be tight to the bed and fence of the saw.  Also be sure to clamp the trim to the fence while cutting, and mind were you put your fingers, you'll need them later.

I like to highlight the edge to cut with a pencil. I'm going to cut along this line, at a very steep angle, to remove alot of stock from behind the joint. 
It's impossible to start at one side cut uninterupted to the other side. You can see in this pic that I made my way into the large cove, bypassing the sharp edge. I'll get to that later.

Coping Saw and BladesCoping Saw and Blades
For precise cutting of intricate or irregular shapes with precise control...

Coping Saw and Blades

EasyCoper for Crown MoldingEasyCoper for Crown Molding
Take the guesswork out of coping crown molding to create perfect inside corners! Allows you to quickly and easily cope crown molding with a power jig saw instead of a coping saw, reducing wrist, ha..

EasyCoper for Crown Molding

This pic shows the angle of the coping saw. I can tell you now I didn't cut steep enough! 
The pic at left shows good sized chunk cut out.. Now to tackle the more difficult angles. Take your time and you'll do fine. Remember you can always remove more stock, but you can't put it back, so err on the side of caution. 
Here you can see the joint is not quite right. Look at the next pic to the right, and you can see why. No problem, that can be removed with the coping saw, sandpaper, or dremmel tool. I perfer the dremmel tool!

Proxxon Precision Drill/GrinderProxxon Precision Drill/Grinder
Proxxon Precision Drill/Grinder/"Dremel Tool" Precision drill/grinder is ideal for milling, drilling, grinding, polishing, brushing, cleaning, deburring, sawing, carving, engraving, rust removal and more! Proxxon..

Proxxon Precision Drill/Grinder

Yeah it's not pretty, but it removes alot of stock very quickly. Just be careful not to nick the finished edge.
Thats better, just a little tweaking and it will be good enough.
Well, what do you think?!? You can see the how the coped pies fits into the other piece. Now comes the tricky part, make it look that good on the wall!

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